Course: Fashion Cultures | Instructor: Beth Dincuff
*used scanned pencil sketches, digital illustration, and photoshop *
footwear design
Inspired by the 80s rockstar aesthetic, my footwear design takes elements from the iconic moto leather jacket as a way to elevate a classic black leather pump. Staying true to the edgy glamour look, these pointed toe pumps features buckle details and silver eyelets throughout the heel and ankle straps, with an addition of a diagonal belt detail in the front center of the shoes. The lower stiletto heels are skinny and tapered to maintain an elegant and sophisticated silhouette, a nod to the kitten heel trend of the 2000s.
Moodboard
When viewing the Kimono Style exhibit at The Met, I was drawn by the kimonos embroidered with floral patterns. The Japanese cherry blossom or the sakura has long been viewed as a cultural hallmark associated with Japanese culture. The Japanese cherry blossoms symbolize birth and death as well as beauty and violence due to its short lifespan. This contradictory meaning represented by these flowers fit the whole concept of juxtaposition within my collection, therefore its pattern can be found in most of my pieces in the form of embroideries or lace patterns.
In the first look, the cherry blossom print is embroidered on to sheer silk chiffon fabric. The fabric is then cut using the bias cut technique and created into a slip dress with an asymmetrical hem and draped cowl neckline. I was inspired by the silhouette of John Galliano’s bias-cut dresses and his signature designs in the early 2000s for the house of Dior. The use of black sheer fabric pays homage to the iconic naked dress phenomenons worn by style icons Jane Birkin and Kate Moss, the two muses that had major influences in this collection.
The knee-length skirt in this collection features a lace hem with patterns of cherry blossom as well. Also inspired by 2000s and 90s high fashion, the asymmetrical hemline and bias-cut black silk crepe skirt upgrades the classic black midi skirt into an edgy, high glamour piece with a whimsy goth feel. This low waisted skirt also features a scallop trim on the waistline to further add a hint of femininity to the look. This garment of femininity and glamour is then paired with a black leather biker jacket, in which its contrast allows for an edgier look.
Inspired by NYC’s punk rock scene in the 80s, I wanted to pay tribute to the iconic black motorcycle jacket associated with that rockstar aesthetic and give it that chic and elevated twist while still featuring the elements of the edgy moto jacket. The buckle fastening at the collar and buckle details at the sides of the waist are accompanied by silver eyelets that are inspired by the eye-catching studs and buttons of the rockstar motorcycle jacket.
The dark taupe trousers are fitted at the top with a subtle flare at the bottom, ending just below the ankles for a bootcut length. Also inspired by 80s punk rock style, these trousers are embellished with a strap of leather that resembles a belt sitting lower at the hips, this black leather strap comes with lace up details which further gives that hard edge and rocker chic look to these classic pair of trousers. These lace up detailing consists of silver eyelets and faux suede laces, they not only adds edginess but also hints of eroticism, as its evocative of a lace up corset or bustier. Although corsets were traditionally seen as something restricting and oppressive towards women, reappropriating the corset as something other than a tool for the patriarchy to control the appearance of the female body further expresses self liberation and the challenging of power relations.
The babydoll top is an adaptation of the early 19th century dresses I came across at the In America: An Anthology of Fashion exhibit. The silhouette and style of this top adopted the high waistlines, square neckline, and lace embroideries of the early 19th century French style-inspired dresses, with a modern twist. Instead of the traditional choice of puffed sleeves, the top features cap sleeves which appears rather similar except its much more fitted and has less coverage. The waistline is covered by a ribbon that could be tied at the back [or front] as an adjustable feature. The fabric below the waistline consist of a dark brown sheer lace fabric with embroidered patterns at the top and bottom hem (cherry blossom pattern).
The top comes with a neck accessory in the form of a thick choker that resembles a neck “scarf” (without the excess fabric) made out of dark brown silk organza. The dark organza fabric is folded and layered to add texture and hints of sheerness, it has closures at the back in the form of rouleau button loops. Inspired by 90s grunge fashion and the pairing of high collar necklaces with low necklines in royal aristocratic fashion, the thick neck collar in the same dark brown shade as the square neck top is a bold and flattering addition to the look. However, aside from it being an aesthetically powerful fashion statement, chokers also have carried powerful meanings throughout history. For instance, during the French Revolution, French women express their hatred towards the monarchs and nobility by wearing red ribbons around their necks as a tribute and homage to all those who were slaughtered at the guillotine. This inspired me to design a simple yet unique choker using layered organza, as a bold statement piece that expresses power and rebellion. As fashion writer Claire Stemen puts it, a choker is a “beautiful warning sign that you’re dealing with feminine ferocity”
REFERENCES
April 25, Brian Funk | and 2016. “Cherry Trees in Japanese Folklore.” Brooklyn Botanic Garden. Accessed December 4, 2022. https://www.bbg.org/news/cherry_trees_in_japanese_folklore.
Donna Italiana ®. “Choker Culture through History.” Accessed December 4, 2022. https://donnaitaliana.co/pages/choker-culture-through-history.
Stemen, Claire. “Sticking Our Necks Out: A Brief History of the Choker.” Fashion Week Online® (blog), August 12, 2016. https://fashionweekonline.com/sticking-necks-brief-history-choker.
MOODBOARD
Christian Dior Fall 2000 RTW, Photo: JB Villareal / Shoot Digital
Jane Birkin photographed by Yves LE ROUX/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images.
Gucci Spring 1999 RTW https://i.pinimg.com/564x/d1/14/df/d114df009cc44768fffa7c35da189687.jpg
Emilio Pucci Spring 2012
Mario Testino for Gucci F/W 1997https://i.pinimg.com/564x/95/a7/05/95a70504a84469c23570369ad84fd020.jpg
Chanel Fall 2001 campaign https://i.pinimg.com/564x/36/af/e2/36afe2eee5eac5d29d8625f7a8d656be.jpg
Kate Moss for Donna Karan, 1993
